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Right at this point I might say that the "greens committees" of the best kept courses in the country have not the slightest objections to players,' taking any sized divot or piece of turf they desire. What they do object to is carelessness in not re-placing it. If you replace the turf it will grow again, hardy as ever. If you knock the divot into such small pieces that you cannot find them you should tramp the edges of the cut in the turf down tight in order that the grass which is hanging loose will grow again. If that is done the grass will grow over the cut and soon fill it up, because it is the nature of grass to protect its roots.
Many experiments and a great many thousands of dollars have been spent by the different governments in trying to develop a shell which will not "skid" or glance off the armor of vessels. The power in the shell or momentum and weight are amply sufficient to penetrate the heavy steel plates if the blow can be concentrated, and this they have accomplished by putting a soft nose around the point of the shell.
The same principle governs the contact of the ball on the face of the cleek and other irons, and to pick a ball off the turf clean requires an exactness of skill which is beyond the ability of even the professionals, and they would get but a small part of the power into the ball if they used that method.
I have shown in the diagram *** the grass piled up in front of the ball but not that which the club picks up on each side. When it is considered how quickly the grass is cut and packed on each side of the ball it will be readily understood what a brace or support is given to prevent any of the power being wasted by the ball sliding sideways in either direction.
Also it will be noticed that if there is any slipping or yielding up or down it will not be up because the face of the club is inclined forward. This is the reason that so much more power is transferred to the ball when taking turf as against picking the ball off the ground clear.
It should be borne in mind that this extra power comes purely from the method of making the shot and by reason of the action of the grass or turf and not from an extra heave in the swing. I have already drawn attention to the fact that the club shaft is shorter than that of the driver, thereby reducing the leverage of the club and making it possible to get up speed very quickly. This should be kept in mind because the prevailing fault of the majority of golfers is "hitting too soon."
Then the fact that the club is designed to enable the player to swing faster, as the blow must be sharper than with a wooden club, should warn the player to use every endeavor to hold back and not make such an effort as he would with a wooden shot, where it requires more strength.
The very fact that an iron shot is required is sufficient evidence that the time for greater accuracy is at hand, and there is no hope for the player who is trying to make "beef" or brute strength do what he should use a wooden shot for. The day the player masters his desire for distance with cleek shots is the day he begins to bring them off.
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